Boat Transom

Boat Transom
Whats the best way to stiffen the transom on my boat?

I need to stiffen the transon on my dejon fishing boat and was wondering what is the best way to do it and how to do it and which materials are best cheers Phil

Jtexas has a nice, but slightly overcomplicated (imho) description, but I build for commercial-fishing grade stuff, and if you’re OK with a non-factory finish, here’s what I suggest:

Remove the hardware, topcap/rubrail, and trace a line 1 1/2 inches inside of the outer edges of the transom, as seen from outside the boat. Take a sawzall, and cut out the transom, leaving the 1 1/2 inch lip. Dig out any coring.

You will need a 5-gallon pail of Polyester resin (epoxy is too expensive, though slightly better), a sheet of 1/2 or 3/4 inch marine grade plywood, about 1/4 roll of medium-weight glass matting, and enough 12-inch bi- or tri-axial matting to go around the perimeter of the transom, a gallon of acetone, a fiberglass roller (a steel roller to compress the material and get bubbles out) and some 4 inch paint rollers. Total cost should be less than $200.

Read a good guide online about doing fiberglass work. Using 1/2inch or 3/4 inch marine-grade plywood, fit the ply to the transom, so that it fits within the lip. there needs to be a minimum 1/4 inch between the lip’s edges and the transom.Build up the plywood with 2 layers of fiberglass matting on both sides, with a middle-layer of woven roving in between, until it fits within the lip of the old transom. Rough up the edges of the bi/triaxial matting, and run the matting around the lip, centered on where the transom and the hull meet.

If you pluck out the threads from any edges of the cloth, to rough up the straight line formed by cutting the cloth itself (except for with the roving), when you tamp down the glass/resin mix with the steel roller (dipped frequently in acetone to prevent stickyness), you can build up the transom to its’ old thickness. I would suggest adding 1-2 final layers of matting over the bi or triaxial matting, to hide it. You can then sand to your hearts’ content and finish.

One thing I would suggest is that you use a good filler material to fill any gaps or to smooth out the plywood core- you do NOT want air bubbles. I use automotive filler… BONDO. It works, and is easy to shape and sand.

One thing to remember is that the strength of your transom is not in the strength of the wood- rather, the strength comes from the inherant properties of the composite fiberglass- the run of the glass strands, and the quality of the bond to hull, wood, and core.

Terry Boat Transom Replacement Needed – Seacast Project Intro

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